History of Surfing
STORY OF REDEMPTION
It is not an easy task to tell the history of surfing.We can say that this is an ancient story, full of details, surprises and achievements. Surfing is considered a
sport of kings. You will understand with me, let’s get into
this story.
After all, who invented surfing? The Polynesians, the Hawaiians or the Peruvians? A controversial subject. But,
I will say in advance, defining who got on a board for the first
time is much more difficult.
Contrary to what some people imagine, surfing did not begin
with polycarbonate or wooden boards, but rather with the body itself sliding on the ocean waters, we call this Bodysurfing. This is the oldest known way of catching a wave, and it probably all began in the Pacific Ocean. Some Peruvians claim to be the genesis, “origin”, of surfing, claiming that the first inhabitants of that country were the pioneers, riding the waves, using a type of board made of reeds, when they returned from fishing expeditions, around 4,000 years ago.
